Cono Sur claims to be the winery that produces the best Fino in South America. It aims to focus on elegant, balanced wines that can be enjoyed comfortably, rather than strong and heavy styles.

Thomas Domeyko, the CEO of Cono Sur, introduces Cono Sur wine at the WSA Wine Academy in Banpo, Seoul on the 20th of last month./Courtesy of Byun Jihee

Thomas Domeyko, the Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of the Chilean winery Cono Sur, met with ChosunBiz on the 20th of last month at the Banpo WSA Wine Academy in Seoul and said this.

Cono Sur is a winery established in 1993 in the Colchagua Valley by Viña Concha y Toro, a representative wine corporation of Chile. Although it is a relatively new winery, it has grown to export wine to 80 countries worldwide. It ranks third among all Chilean wineries in terms of export volume, exporting 4 million cases, or 48 million bottles, last year.

Several factors, including the introduction of state-of-the-art brewing equipment, contributed to Cono Sur's rapid growth, but continuous research on grape varieties has been the foundation. The representative variety is Fino.

When thinking of Chilean wine, one typically recalls varieties brought from Bordeaux, France, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, and Sauvignon Blanc. This is because Chilean nobles who studied or traveled in France since the mid-19th century brought these grape varieties, leading to commercialization beginning in the 20th century.

However, unlike typical Chilean wineries, Cono Sur has focused on the Burgundy French variety Fino to differentiate itself.

Domeyko said, "There is no reason for Chilean wineries to necessarily stick to Bordeaux styles," adding, "We are focusing on sophisticated and fresh styles, such as Fino and Chardonnay." He continued, "Generally, Chilean wineries produce 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% white grapes like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but 75% of Cono Sur's production is Fino," noting that "the remaining 20% includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay."

Fino has a thin skin and is vulnerable to pests, making cultivation tricky. For this reason, it cannot be produced as abundantly as other varieties. However, when made properly, it results in a delicate and elegant wine.

Cono Sur discovered that Fino trees planted 30 years ago were thriving in the Colchagua Valley around the time it was established in the 1990s. Realizing the potential of Fino in Chile, the winery launched the "Fino project" in 1999. It introduced traditional Burgundy brewing methods and expanded vineyards to various grape-growing environments across Chile, including Casablanca Valley and San Antonio Valley.

Domeyko explained, "Fino grows well in regions with cool climates, low humidity, and ample sunlight," adding, "The cold ocean currents that regulate the temperature along the Chilean coast maintain ideal temperatures for Fino cultivation. In Casablanca and San Antonio Valleys, grapes mature slowly and boast excellent Sukseongdo."

Sustainable management is also an important value for Cono Sur. In 2021, it obtained B-corp certification, which is awarded to corporations fulfilling social and environmental responsibilities. In practice, Cono Sur employees use bicycles to commute to and from the vineyards and do not artificially damage the surrounding ecosystem. In the vineyards, geese eat underground insects, and instead of using chemical pesticides, they practice eco-friendly farming by planting flowers to control pests.

Representatives of Cono Sur's wines./Courtesy of Byun Jihee

The representative wines introduced by Domeyko that day include ▲Bicycle Chardonnay 2024 ▲20 Barrel Chardonnay 2023 ▲20 Barrel Fino 2021 ▲Bicycle Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ▲20 Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ▲Ocio 2020.

Ocio, Cono Sur's flagship wine, is the winery's highest-grade wine made from the Fino variety. It is produced exclusively from grapes harvested from trees that have grown for over 30 years. Only 12,000 bottles are produced annually, and it features a complex blend of cherry, raspberry, spice, and tobacco aromas. The 2013 vintage of Ocio received 96 points from Robert Parker, and the 2015 vintage received 96 points from Tim Atkin, earning high praise internationally. About 500 to 600 bottles are imported into Korea, officially distributed by Shinsegae.

Cono Sur plans to continue expanding its presence in the Korean market. Domeyko noted, "The Korean market is a core country with the fastest growth in Asia," adding, "Korea ranked around 9th in export volume but has now risen to 4th or 5th. It is expected to leap to 1st place in Asia, surpassing Japan by 2028-2030."

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