The entry of Japanese fashion brands into South Korea is ongoing. Interest in Japanese culture and fashion, which had stalled due to the 'No Japan' movement and the impact of COVID-19, has revived mainly among young generations.
A notable example is the Japanese select shop BEAMS, which has caused a recent 'open run' phenomenon. According to the retail industry on the 21st, Fashion corporations FGFG, which operates brands such as CP Company and Stone Island, has introduced BEAMS to the domestic market. BEAMS started in 1976 at a store in Harajuku, Tokyo, and currently operates 170 stores worldwide. The brand is popular in Japan for spreading Americaji (American casual) and preppy looks (fashion styles of students from elite private high schools on the U.S. East Coast).
BEAMS announced its entry into the domestic market by opening a pop-up store in the basement of Lotte Avenue L Jamsil on 4th. A scene unfolded on the opening day, with over 300 customers lining up from 7 a.m. BEAMS Vice President Endo Keisi noted, "We are discussing whether to continue operating stores with our Korean partner based on the response to this pop-up store."
The Japanese outdoor brand Goldwin also made a direct entry into the domestic market this year. Established in 1950, Goldwin is a Japanese corporation that offers outdoor clothing based on skiing. The company, which holds the trademark rights for The North Face in Asia, established Goldwin Korea (now Youngone Outdoor) in partnership with Youngone Holdings in 1992 and has been developing businesses for Goldwin and The North Face in a licensing format.
According to the industry, Goldwin extended the licensing period for the North Face trademark with Youngone Holdings until 2032 last year and terminated the Goldwin licensing agreement effective January 1 of this year. Goldwin then established Goldwin Korea to transition to direct entry. Goldwin is expanding its contact with domestic customers by operating pop-up stores at Shinsegae Department Store in Gangnam and Hyundai Department Store in Pangyo.
Kris F&N secured exclusive business rights in South Korea from TSI Holdings, the operator of the Japanese outdoor brand AND WANDER, in the second half of last year. This company, which had specialized in golf, is known to have pursued the introduction of the brand into the domestic market to broaden its category to include outdoor. Highlight Brands has brought in the Japanese watch brand KOUE KYOTO from Tokyo. After operating a pop-up store in Seongsu last February, it recently opened a private pop-up store in a five-star hotel.
Studious, a Tokyo select shop showcasing Japanese fashion brands, opened its first store in South Korea last month near Dosan Park in Apgujeong-dong, Gangnam. Next month, the Japanese select shop Bshop plans to open a flagship store in Seoul.
According to data from the Korea Customs Service on import and export statistics, South Korea's import of Japanese clothing last year reached $114.33 million (162.77 billion won), a 69% surge compared to 2020.
Many in the industry view the increase in the MZ Generation's (those born from the early 1980s to the early 2000s) travel to Japan in recent years, driven by the yen's depreciation, as a cause for the heightened recognition of local brands. Exposure to a variety of Japanese brands, including designer names like Comme des Garçons and Issey Miyake (Pleats Please, Bao Bao), as well as popular brands such as Uniqlo, Muji, Asics, and Onitsuka Tiger, has reportedly increased consumer demand for new brands.
There are also analyses suggesting that borderless consumption, which transcends national boundaries, has gained momentum mainly among the digitally savvy younger generation. In fact, the recent retail market has seen South Korean beauty and fashion brands, including K-pop, gaining popularity in Japan, while Japanese music and fashion are similarly popular in South Korea.
In response, fashion corporations are actively attracting various Japanese brands. The select shop Beaker, operated by Samsung C&T Fashion Division, is showcasing Japanese indie brands such as Captain Sunshine, Orari, and Komori. The men's fashion brand Captain Sunshine saw a 33% increase in sales last year compared to the previous year. The Japanese brand OrSlow, sold by the menswear brand Shiftzi, also saw sales increase by over 200% last year.
The select shop EQL, operated by Handsome, handles over 50 Japanese fashion and accessory brands such as Younger Song and Nick Gear. In January and February of this year, sales of Japanese brands within EQL more than tripled compared to the same period last year. A Handsome representative stated, "We are continually discovering and showcasing Japanese fashion brands that are in high demand among domestic customers."