In early 2015, the prominent French gourmet magazine 'Le Chef' conducted a special survey targeting 512 renowned chefs from around the world who received two or more stars from the Michelin Guide.
The survey was akin to asking Oscar-winning actors about the 'best actor' or voting for the 'most outstanding singer' among Grammy winners.
The individual who took first place in the 'chef's chef' vote was Pierre Gagnaire (75), known as the 'Picasso of the culinary world.'
Following him were global chefs such as Paul Bocuse, the father of French cuisine, Juan Roca from Spain, who claimed the title of 'world's best restaurant,' Thomas Keller, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the United States, and Alain Ducasse, the magician of French fine dining.
Gagnaire entered the Korean market in October 2008 as the first world-renowned chef to receive three Michelin stars. Lotte Hotel invested 7 billion won to open a restaurant named 'Pierre Gagnaire Seoul' on the 34th floor of its main branch in Sogong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul. The dining industry regards this moment as the true beginning of fine dining in Korea.
Gagnaire operates more than ten restaurants in cities around the world, including his home city of Paris, London in the UK, Tokyo in Japan, Las Vegas in the United States, Dubai in the United Arab Emirates, and Shanghai in China. He visits and inspects restaurants worldwide, including Seoul, every year. He also teaches new cooking methods and seeks local ingredients. His week-long stays in various countries result in packed reservations by quick bookers.
He visited Korea last month for an event hosted by the Champagne house Perrier-Jouët.
He noted, "The city of Seoul feels very calm and safe," but added, "In terms of food culture, there is a massive and vibrant energy."
◇ "Korean cuisine has rapidly grown over 17 years... Fine dining has established itself as a culture"
Dressed in a pristine chef's uniform, Gagnaire appeared about ten minutes early with a gentle smile. It was just after the bustling lunch hour. I asked the master about his impressions of Seoul, which he visited again after a year.
"When I first opened my restaurant in Seoul in 2008, most of my customers were older and wealthy. These days, that's not the case. Today at lunch, most of the guests were young couples. They came knowing who I am and showing interest in my work."
Gagnaire evaluated that the fine dining culture in Seoul has rapidly grown over the past 17 years. It has now become a 'culinary center' that can stand shoulder to shoulder with cities like Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Singapore.
"Japan and Hong Kong have been well-known in the culinary world since the 1980s. The year 2008, when Pierre Gagnaire Seoul opened, was just when the culture began to gain attention in Seoul. I'm grateful to have experienced this period together. I hope that those with a passion for food can further draw out potential through new interpretations."
He also mentioned that he felt positive energy during his meeting with the young Korean chefs who were appointed as ambassadors for Perrier-Jouët the day before.
"I could sense a strong passion and determination among the young Korean chefs to establish a strong presence in their work. They seem to have a high pride in pursuing high perfection and conveying their intentions through food."
◇ Creator of fusion cuisine... "Korean food pairs well with fine champagne"
Gagnaire gained fame for leading the fusion cuisine movement, which mixes classic French cooking techniques with unique ingredients discovered from various countries and modern cooking methods. If you trace back the origin of what we commonly refer to as 'fusion cuisine,' you will find Gagnaire.
During his visit to Korea, he presented a unique perspective by using Korean ingredients and cooking methods with the sparkling wine champagne, symbolic of France. Generally, champagne, which values subtle flavors, is thought to struggle to harmonize with spicy or salty Korean cuisine.
However, Gagnaire offered a different interpretation.
"At lunch, I tasted dishes that appeared to be French but were prepared using Korean ingredients at a table set by young chefs. The flavors felt distinctly Korean, yet changing the cooking method allowed the unusual flavors from typical Korean ingredients to make way for the next taste in constant transformation. When paired with champagne, the lively and refreshing champagne continually filled in the gaps of the dish's flavor."
He added that the nuttiness of sesame oil or perilla oil, often used in Korean cuisine, harmonizes well with the salty minerality characteristic of champagne. In particular, he stated that the deep flavor of soy sauce found in fermented foods creates a remarkable balance with the acidity of champagne.
◇ From age 15 to 75... 60 years of a culinary journey
Gagnaire started cooking at the age of 15. This year, at 75, marks exactly 60 years since he began his culinary journey. Both of his parents were chefs who made French food. He said, "My whole life has been filled with food, and I don't have to intentionally devise recipes; with enough experience, it naturally comes to me how to cook."
At the age of 21, he opened his first restaurant in the small town of Saint-Étienne in southeastern France. The very next year, he received one star from the Michelin Guide. In 1993, he earned three stars. He was only in his mid-40s at that time.
During the interview, he pulled out a photograph of a newspaper interview from 40 years ago to show me. He said, "I recently read the interview article from 40 years ago again."
"The philosophy then and now is not very different. If you are wholly dedicated to making food, pay close attention to details, and obsess over the composition of flavors, inspiration will arise. When these sudden thoughts come together, not only am I satisfied, but food that ultimately satisfies the guests is born."
◇ "Delicious food takes precedence over pretty food"
Gagnaire is known for his remarkably beautiful plating. That is why he is referred to as the 'Picasso of the culinary world.'
I asked him about his thoughts on the contemporary trend of sharing food photos on social media platforms like Instagram.
Gagnaire expressed, "I regret the trend of chefs focusing more on the appearance of food. When the menu is made public on Instagram, guests lose their anticipation. Chefs do not desire food to cool while being photographed. As a result, many dishes that are only visually appealing but cold have emerged. I prioritize the natural taste and honesty of food over flashy plating."
He added that chefs should not stress excessively over the appearance of food. Gagnaire stated, "Artistic attempts should not take precedence over taste. We are not painters; we are people who create flavors. We must uphold the principle that plating should not compromise taste."
During the interview, guests seeking his autograph presented two photos to him. They mentioned they had printed them out at home to get his signature. He carefully signed one photo with a gold marker and another with silver.
Lastly, I asked him, "How have you managed to endure in a kitchen that is hard even for young people for 60 years?" Gagnaire replied as he stood up, "There is no particular way for me."
"I do not overindulge. Of course, I do not smoke. I exercise moderately, take plenty of rest, drink a lot of water, and eat primarily vegetables. That’s all."