Italian luxury fashion brand Prada recently showcased T-strap sandals at a fashion show, prompting Indian netizens to claim that their culture has been appropriated. The New York Times (NYT) reported on this on the 30th.
According to a report by the New York Times (NYT) on the 30th, the T-strap sandals worn by models on the runway at Prada's fashion show in Milan have drawn accusations on Indian social media that they resemble 'Kolhapuri chappal,' a traditional handmade leather shoe from India.
'Kolhapuri chappal' is a shoe named after the Kolhapur region in western Maharashtra, known for its handcrafted sandals with a flat sole resembling jerky.
Indians condemned Prada for appropriating their traditional designs and culture. They also argued that India should receive appropriate recognition for its influence on this product.
The NYT analyzed that the intense anger behind this reaction stems from a desire among Indians, inspired by their country's heightened global status, to have their contributions acknowledged.
Ultimately, after the Chamber of Commerce in Maharashtra sent a letter of protest, Prada acknowledged that the product showcased at the fashion show was indeed inspired by Kolhapuri sandals.
The Prada Group stated, "The sandals were inspired by traditional Indian footwear made in specific regions of Maharashtra and Karnataka and were showcased at the men's Spring/Summer 2026 show held in Milan."
It added, "We are initiating a dialogue to engage meaningfully with local artisan communities" and noted that it is also "in contact with authorities in Maharashtra" regarding this matter.
Experts in India explained that the controversy arises from concerns among Indians that Prada’s sale of the sandals could lead to the exclusion of the Kolhapuri industry in India.
Kanika Gallo, an Indian fashion columnist, stated that the lack of clarity regarding Prada's commercial plans for this footwear is the "core of the anger that Indians feel."
Intellectual property lawyer Subang Nair pointed out that Kolhapuri chappal is protected as a 'Geographical Indication' (GI).
A Geographical Indication is a label used on products that have a specific geographical origin, where the quality and characteristics of the product derive from that origin. The Indian government designated Kolhapuri chappal as a GI product in 2019.
There are also opinions suggesting that excessive nationalism is reflected in this controversy.
Raghavendra Rathore, a renowned Indian fashion designer, argued, "We have become a very sensitive society," adding that the appearance of a humble Kolhapuri sandal, which costs only 1,000 to 3,000 rupees (15,000 to 47,000 won), on an international stage should be celebrated rather than met with anger.