Anna Wintour (75), the editor of American fashion magazine Vogue, who has reigned like a pope in the fashion industry, will step down from the editorial position she has held for 37 years since 1988.
On the 26th (local time), the British BBC reported that Wintour has decided to step down from her position as editor of American Vogue. However, she will retain the roles of Chief Content Officer (CCO) of Vogue's parent company Condé Nast and Vogue Global Editorial Director for the time being.
Wintour is the real-life model for the devilish editor in the movie 'The Devil Wears Prada.' Her nickname is 'Nuclear Wintour.' With her trademark bob haircut and large Chanel sunglasses that cover half of her face, she coldly and decisively shaped the trends in the fashion world, just as her nickname suggests.
Even consumers who are not interested in fashion find it hard to escape the influence Wintour has had on the fashion industry for nearly 40 years.
Fashion experts note that Wintour's biggest achievement is the democratization of high-end fashion.
In her first Vogue cover as editor in November 1988, Wintour made a bold move. The cover model wore a $10,000 (about 14 million won) Christian Lacroix Haute Couture top, paired with $50 (about 70,000 won) Guess jeans.
Before transfer, the boss covers were filled with high-priced items in their exclusive league. It was unprecedented for everyday items like jeans, especially from a low-cost brand, to appear alongside ultra-high-end brand tops.
In a 2012 interview, Wintour recalled, "That photo was different from the elegant and sophisticated close-up shots taken in the studio," adding, "At the time, the printing company called the publisher to check if this cover was indeed intentional or if it was a mistake that jeans were included."
This unfamiliar combination later became the fashion industry standard known as 'High-Low.' The style of wearing inexpensive ready-to-wear clothes accentuated by expensive high-end accessories is now familiar.
Wintour employed not only models but also celebrities like actors and singers without hesitation on magazine covers. It was a strategy to draw popular culture into the magazine by featuring well-known individuals who had higher recognition than fashion models. As a result, fashion, which once stayed on the sidelines of female culture, grew into an essential element of popular culture.
Since her appointment, Wintour quickly lifted Vogue, which had been trailing behind the competing magazine Elle, to the number one position.
With the rise in ranking, Wintour's influence extended beyond the magazine to encompass the entire fashion industry. She has considered herself a kingmaker in the fashion world for the past 40 years.
A designer deemed insignificant in Wintour's eyes could become a world-renowned star overnight. Notable figures such as John Galliano, who led Dior and Maison Margiela to their prime, the genius Alexander McQueen, and minimalist master Marc Jacobs emerged through Wintour.
Wintour recognized Galliano's genius despite his modest background and introduced him to financial sponsors. When Marc Jacobs was looking for venues for ten fashion shows, she personally suggested that Donald Trump, a real estate tycoon at the time, lend a space at the Plaza Hotel.
The British Telegraph reported, "Wintour built a vast industrial ecosystem that connects designers, celebrities, and capital."
The fashion industry appreciates that it was thanks to Wintour that New York was able to infiltrate the European-dominated fashion landscape. New York Fashion Week has been held at the end of the year, following France's Paris, Italy's Milan, and England's London. Being the last to take place, it has been plagued by plagiarism controversies and has incurred a notorious reputation for being the most lagging behind trends.
Wintour rejected the situation in which American emerging designers were excluded from the fashion industry. She expressed her intention not to attend the fashion weeks held in Europe. With that single statement, New York Fashion Week changed to become the first show in the world based on women's clothing.
Wintour was warm towards designers but was a difficult person to work with. As depicted in the movie, Wintour's perfectionist and authoritative leadership left scars on many.
Employees who worked with Wintour had to dress slim and aesthetically according to Vogue standards.
In 2020, The New York Times interviewed 18 editors of color who worked with Wintour. They reported that "discrimination was rampant at Vogue during the more than 30 years Anna has served as editor," stating that "only pretty, thin, wealthy women from prestigious universities were favored."
That same year, as the 'Black Lives Matter (BLM)' movement swept across the U.S., Wintour was criticized once again for discrimination against people of color. Criticism erupted from within the Black community, accusing Vogue of failing to provide sufficient opportunities to Black and other minority writers, photographers, and designers during the decades Wintour was in charge. It was also pointed out that Vogue enforced a Eurocentric aesthetic standard.
At that time, Wintour acknowledged her errors in an internal email, stating that "Vogue has failed to adequately spotlight creators of color" and admitted, "I recognize that I have hurt people and been narrow-minded."
The fashion industry analyzes that the era when one charismatic editor dominated the entire fashion scene has come to an end with Wintour.
The British media Industry Fashion reported, "Wintour's resignation shows that the power of fashion media is shifting from a centralized model to a decentralized network like influencers and celebrities."