In the Jung-gu district of Seoul, there is a tranquil neighborhood. Just a short distance from the bustling city, one can encounter Mukjeong-dong. The name Mukjeong originates from the village name 'Meokjeolgol.' It is said that long ago there used to be a temple known as 'Meokjeol' or 'Moksa (墨寺)' in this area.
And at the center of that village, there was a well. This well, so dark and deep that its depth was unfathomable, was known as the 'Well of Emotions,' and the name derived from its color was 'Mukjeong' (墨井). The black well, akin to ink, was where ancient people drew not just simple drinking water. That water was the foundation of life and the roots of the community.
Now, there is a restaurant bearing that name. In the space called 'Mukjeong,' one person is reclaiming their roots in their own way. Chef Austin Kang, who was born and raised in Los Angeles, is the protagonist.
He stepped foot on Korean soil 12 years ago, far removed from Korean food culture. Initially, he thought about briefly working at an IT company. However, after two months, he quit, left alone without friends, work, or money. He struggled with the Korean language and wanted to find a space where words were unnecessary. So, he headed to the kitchen, a place where actions took precedence over words. He claims he felt a sense of stability there for the first time, communicating through movement and sensation.
At first, it was survival. But at some point, he began to ponder why he was there and what he should cook. He also noted that many Mexican and French dishes he encountered when he arrived in Korea often didn't have 'real flavor.' He thought that perhaps making it himself would yield better results. Thus, he delved seriously into cooking.
As he settled into the kitchen, he confronted another question: the question of identity he had held since childhood. He wondered who he was, where he belonged, and the identity of 'Korea,' which had felt distant until then, became the root he wanted to understand most.
He sought to answer that question through Korean cuisine. It was more than just taste. He gradually became interested in the vastness embedded in the time that lasted for half a millennium and the philosophy and traditions contained within. The world of jang (fermented sauces) and fermentation, in particular, was strange yet fascinating to him. In America, fermentation was an unfamiliar culture. Often viewed as a process that spoiled or decayed food, it was initially difficult for him to grasp.
However, in Korea, that fermentation is regarded as a way to create deep flavors in food and is seen as beneficial to health. The perspective of accepting it as 'living' rather than 'rotting' was a refreshing shock for him and the starting point of his learning. Once the dam was broken, he became even more curious.
To satisfy that thirst for knowledge, he took action. He learned fermentation in Jeju, made jang, and created gochujang (Korean chili paste) himself, thus coming to understand that philosophy. Nature's microorganisms, temperature, time, and dedication came into play. While there was no fixed formula, there was an essential attitude: 'affection.'
In this way, cooking became his language and a pathway to reclaiming his roots. Mukjeong is the fruit of that journey. His cooking is a blend of Mexican, Italian, and Korean cuisine. However, its essence is distinct. He believes in a way that doesn't forcefully showcase something but instead integrates one's own story. He wants to convey what he learned about jang and fermentation back to the place where he was once born. That is his next goal.
Just as Mukjeong-dong did, Austin Kang is drawing up his own flavors from the deep, dark well. Slowly, but surely.
―Please introduce yourself briefly.
"I am Austin Kang, the owner chef of Mukjeong. I was born and raised in the United States and have been in Korea for nearly 12 years now. Originally, I primarily focused on Western cuisine. Being accustomed to the culture I grew up in, Western cooking felt more comfortable for me."
―I am curious about how you came to walk the path of a chef.
"Honestly, I didn't have the desire to become a chef. I majored in Hospitality Management in college, but cooking was more of a 'last resort' for me. Then I got a job at an IT company in Korea. However, after two months, my life began to shake as I quit. It was a 'dark period' with no friends, no job, and no money. I even tried being an English teacher, but I couldn't see a future. So I started thinking, 'Let's work in the kitchen at least,' and that became a significant turning point in my life."
―I am curious about what kind of turning point you experienced.
"For me, who struggled with Korean, the kitchen was a sanctuary. Working 13 hours a day left no time for other worries. Being together all day long fostered bonds with team members, which became a great comfort to me. Meanwhile, I felt something was lacking in the Mexican and Italian food I had tasted in Korea. It didn't have 'real flavor.' So I thought that if I did it myself, there might be potential."
―Now you are expanding your culinary world with a focus on Korean cuisine. What sparked that change?
"Being born an American, my roots are in Korea. I felt a sense of duty to learn Korean cuisine as a Korean person. This was not just about cooking; it was a longing for my heritage and roots. The world of jang and fermentation felt particularly strange and fascinating to me as someone who grew up in America. Gradually, I developed a deep desire to learn more, and that feeling remains."
―What kind of place is Mukjeong?
"Mukjeong is a space created after much contemplation. I have run several restaurants previously and have experienced many failures. Those experiences have become the nutrients to create today's Mukjeong. Mukjeong resembles my life. The food at Mukjeong naturally blends Mexican, Italian, and Korean flavors. It contains my childhood memories and my current philosophy. I used to be embarrassed, but my cooking seemed excessive. I added many delicious and stimulating elements, leading to an overall lack of balance. After being eliminated from 'Culinary Class Wars,' I reflected on myself, who was trying too hard to showcase something. Chef Anh Sung-jae, who was a judge at that time, also gave me similar advice."
―Your name is unique.
"Mukjeong is named after the old name of this neighborhood. It is said that there used to be a large well where monks stayed and drew up clean water. It was so deep that it appeared black. Like that well's water, I hope my cooking becomes natural and easy on the body, which is the reason for the name."
―What sets Mukjeong apart from previous restaurants?
"Mukjeong is structured around individual dishes rather than courses. There is a culture of sharing in Korean cuisine. When I first came to Korea, I had no friends and spent holidays alone, so I wanted to capture the warm culture of sharing meals, like 'home-cooked food,' with guests."
―I heard that Mukjeong presents a fusion of tradition and modernity and is also a place that contemplates the culture of Korean jang and fermentation.
"All the jang used at Mukjeong is made by myself. I began learning to make jang after meeting a teacher in Jeju. It takes about five years for doenjang (fermented soybean paste) and ganjang (soy sauce) to reach their true flavor. I even went to Jeju with the staff to try farming. The first gochujang we made together holds special memories, and I still use it in the restaurant today."
Initially, the concept of fermentation was unfamiliar to me. In America, the fermentation process seemed like it was 'rotting.' Yet, the fact that this could lead to healthy food was incredibly fascinating. Elements such as microorganisms, molds, temperature, and weather greatly influence the result, so there is no set formula. That’s why some kimchi ferments well while others can spoil. Ultimately, I realized that 'dedication and love' are what truly matter.
―Do you have a certain attitude or philosophy when it comes to cooking?
"My culinary philosophy is 'stay true to yourself, be original.' I believe that restaurants that tell their own story rather than follow trends will last longer. I always consider nutrition and health as well. The genuine goal of our restaurant is for guests to eat, have comfortable conversations, and enjoy good times. Mukjeong is a space created with that aim. I sometimes explain about jang, and I do worry if guests understand. However, if there's something to boast about, it's that our food is easy to digest and not burdensome. (laughs)"
―If you were to compare life to a dish, what would it be?
"Braised short ribs. It's a dish that requires a long time, dedication, and patience. I, too, have grown through cooking over a long time, and cooking has helped me set the direction of my life again. Therefore, I want to love and uphold the art of cooking for a long time. If there's one goal, it's to better introduce the charm of Korean cuisine, especially the fermentation culture expressed through health, to the world."
―What dreams do you have for the future, both as a chef and as an individual?
"I want to see Mukjeong grow globally. While winning awards is good, I believe it's more important for people to resonate with the philosophy here. I don't want to lose my direction by getting caught up in awards. They say a person can only focus on one thing at a time. I want to concentrate on what I can do now."
―If you could say something to customers visiting Mukjeong, what would it be?
"I hope you have a good time. May you become healthier and feel better, and may digestion go well. There's a joke that if you eat Mukjeong's well-fermented food, you'll go to the bathroom well. What you eat should all come out. (laughs) Eating well and eliminating well is medicine. I mean it."