When did gourmet begin? Some find its origin in the "discovery of fire." When humanity grasped fire, food no longer became a mere means of survival. As we passed the era of eating raw foods, we began to truly feel the sense of "taste."
Fire secured hygiene by eliminating impurities and also added sensory depth to food. Changes in proteins through the Maillard reaction, as well as new flavors such as concentration, smoking, and burnt notes, were experienced. To exaggerate slightly, perhaps from this point on, we could say that we began not just to consume food but to "experience" it. Fire was the key that opened the door to taste.
However, the pinnacle is the discovery of "sauce." Sauce is both a technology and an art that allows humanity to actively choose flavors. Rather than a single taste such as sweetness, bitterness, sourness, or saltiness, the combination and pairing allowed food to enter the realm of art. Humanity realized while creating sauces that taste could be "created."
The absolute quantity occupied by sauce in food may be small. However, excellence is never determined by quantity. Sometimes even the smallest portion can have the greatest influence. For instance, consider a salad.
A spoonful of sauce made from yuzu and Japanese soy sauce gives the salad an Eastern feel. However, adding olive oil and lemon juice rebirths it as a Western vinaigrette. Additionally, the presence of sauce does not discriminate against its subjects. From steak, which is synonymous with meat dishes, to plain tofu, sauce always determines the character of all ingredients it touches.
Usually, one thinks of sauce being simmered over fire. However, there is someone who has changed that formula. It is none other than legendary French chef Yannick Alléno. His influence on the gourmet world is immense, earning him the nickname "Prince of Sauce." He has won over 15 Michelin stars in 17 countries, including France and Korea. In particular, the technique he devised called "extraction" has brought a significant shift to the modern gourmet world.
His approach departs from conventional notions. Usually, when one thinks of sauce, they imagine it being made by simmering over fire. However, he blooms the flower of the dish known as sauce through water and cooling. According to Chef Alléno, fire inevitably leads to destruction. Aromas can evaporate, and if the edges of the sauce burn, bitterness can form. It also changes its texture. This is why the taste can be rich but feel heavy.
However, extraction is different. It involves low-temperature sous vide cooking and the process of freezing and thawing. If fire is destruction, cooling is "preservation." Sous vide cooking extracts the "essence" of the ingredients, and through the freezing and thawing process, pure layers of flavor are separated. The sauce thus obtained can draw out deep flavors without destroying aroma, nutrition, or structure. Sauce born from extraction is clearer and more transparent while possessing a deep and clean taste.
There is a place in the country where one can feel the traces of Chef Alléno. It is the modern French restaurant "Stay" at Signiel Seoul. Stay is a brand where tradition and modernity flow together, with locations in major cities worldwide, including Dubai and Seoul. Chef Alléno cited the fantastic view and the level of food that matches it as the attractions of Stay. Ultimately, food, he believes, can be an even more astonishing experience when enjoyed with loved ones.
When asked what he would say to the customers visiting Stay, a simple reply came back: "Welcome to Paradise."
– Please introduce yourself briefly.
"I am Chef Yannick Alléno, originally from Paris, France. I opened Stay at Signiel Seoul eight years ago. I have been striving to create a new French gourmet culture. While respecting tradition, I aim to merge modern techniques, sensibilities, and scientific thinking. In particular, sauce is the essence of the culinary world. I think of it as more than just a side; it is the 'language of flavor.'"
– What kind of place is Stay at Signiel Seoul?
"It is an honor to work at such a beautiful place as Signiel, as it represents Seoul. That is one reason why Stay is special. Stay is a space for celebration. It is a fitting place for a special day or when one wants to leave a memory of a lifetime. I want to mention the fantastic view overlooking the entire Seoul. Moreover, one can enjoy traditional French cuisine in a comfortable atmosphere with a modern sensibility."
– What do you feel about being back in Seoul? Have you noticed any changes in the city?
"Every time I come to Seoul, it gives me new inspiration. The level of gourmet has truly grown dazzlingly. This year's awarding of a Michelin 3-star to Mingles is proof of that. Seoul is a city that provides not just delicious food but profound 'experiences.' Gourmet enthusiasts, also known as foodies, are exploring restaurants, and Korea's gourmet map is becoming increasingly complex."
– Is there anything interesting about Korean gourmet culture?
"I like kimchi. I also enjoy all those fermented vegetable dishes. The fermentation and aging culture of Korea has taught me a great deal. The deep flavor of Hanwoo (Korean beef), while excellent, seafood is also remarkable."
– Have you come across any Korean ingredients recently that left a strong impression?
"The abalone I ate in Korea was extremely delicious. Through abalone, I felt the evolution of Korean cuisine. For instance, 'Bicena' is an example of how Korean chefs are interpreting Korean cuisine in modern ways. The dish filled with rice inside the abalone was truly fantastic."
– Are there dishes on the Stay menu that showcase the appeal of Korean ingredients and French cuisine?
"Of course. At Stay, we present Korean vegetables, seafood, and meats using French techniques. For instance, there is a spinach salad with truffle. This menu encapsulates both French and Korean flavors."
– I am curious about the conditions for making excellent dishes.
"It is 'love.' Cooking ultimately starts with love. If there is affection for one's work, respect for the team, and love for the ingredients, better dishes will be created. Ultimately, it all depends on love."
– How would you define your cooking?
"It is a harmony of tradition and innovation. While respecting the past, it is a direction that questions the present and future. Modern French cuisine adds a new interpretation upon tradition. In particular, I focus on modern interpretations of sauce."
– What do you think is the most important element in French cuisine?
"Without a doubt, it is sauce. Sauce gives life to French cooking as a 'verb.' It is also a dish in itself. France has grown as a nation of sauce. The famous chef Auguste Escoffier from the 19th century dedicated 71 pages of his cookbook to sauce. To understand French cuisine, one must understand sauce. I believe sauce can change not just the kitchen but the structure of food itself. Grilling a steak well is important, but with a wonderful sauce, one can experience a culinary transformation that can change lives."
– Do you remember the first sauce you made?
"It was hollandaise sauce. I still remember the sound of eggs clinking together while making the sauce."
– You are also famous for creating the technique known as extraction; what is it?
"In simple terms, extraction is a method of cooking raw ingredients at the perfect time and temperature to extract their essence. In traditional methods, sauces are boiled down to concentrate. However, I use a method of freezing to 'preserve' the flavor. For example, cooking celeriac at 83 degrees for 12 hours yields perfect flavor. Exceeding 83 degrees destroys mineral content, while temperatures below it do not extract sufficiently."
– I am curious about the benefits of low-temperature cooking, cooling, and thawing described by extraction.
"Fire inevitably leads to destruction. Aromas can evaporate, and the edges of the sauce can burn, resulting in bitterness. The structure also changes. On the other hand, 'cooling' is the aesthetics of preservation. In sous vide cooking, freezing, and thawing processes, nothing is destroyed. Only the essence of the ingredients can be extracted. The result is a very pure and deep flavor."
– How do you develop new menus?
"It starts with the ingredients. The taste of the fish called 'geumtae' varies completely depending on its region. I taste the ingredients and imagine the environment and terroir from which they grew while constructing the recipe. For example, the sea urchin I had this morning had hints of juniper berry aroma. Based on that, new combinations become possible."
– If you were to compare your life to a dish or sauce, how would you do that?
"It is impossible. However, I would like to be remembered as someone who created one of the branches of sauce. I would appreciate it if I could be remembered for my philosophy regarding sauce."
– What are your goals for the future?
"I am a very lucky person. I have been someone who belonged nowhere (A boy from nowhere). However, this work has given me everything. I believe the future will be led by the power of 'culture.'"