One of the mysterious gifts nature has to offer is the matsutake mushroom. While hidden deep in the foothills, the matsutake reveals its existence through its unique aroma, shining brightest in autumn. The combination of pine scent and mushroom fragrance provides the ultimate culinary experience. However, the journey to becoming top-grade matsutake is extremely challenging. The cap must not be too spread out, and the stem must be straight. Although the differences might seem subtle to the average person, these intricate standards determine the true value of the matsutake.
There is a chef who evokes thoughts of this matsutake. It is An Yu-seong, the 16th Cooking Master of South Korea. His life mirrors the journey of the matsutake in achieving the title of Master. The title is not simply awarded for outstanding cooking skills. It is a prestigious honor granted only after passing rigorous evaluations, demonstrating social contribution, character, and expertise. Perhaps this is why the name 'Master' holds a unique dignity, much like how the matsutake reveals its presence with a subtle aroma.
Last year, during the tragic Mu-an disaster that brought sorrow to South Korea, the Master was different. He prepared abalone porridge and lunch boxes to provide some comfort to the bereaved families. He did not particularly wish for his actions to be known. In fact, he said he felt shy when they became public. However, when his kindness became known, it led to meaningful change. Chefs and skilled workers from various parts of the country came together to participate in those donations. Sometimes, the power of delicious food cannot simply be explained by taste.
The restaurant Gamae Il-sik, led by Master An Yu-seong, is also special. It combines the rich ingredients of the Jeonnam region with Japanese cuisine, allowing diners to experience authentic Japanese flavors while embracing Korean elements. The dishes that come out evoke the unique 'jeong' of Honam. Just looking at the well-prepared table with mackerel, sea cucumber, eel, lobster, and tuna is enough to fill you up. The presentation is elegant yet abundant, showcasing the essence of Jeonnam while appreciating the subtle beauty of Japanese cuisine.
In particular, the flounder sushi at Gamae is chewy and glutinous. The soy sauce developed by Master An is sweet yet savory, complementing the mildness of the flounder. It pairs well with the tangy shari (sushi rice). The mackerel wrapped in seaweed is also noteworthy. Placing mackerel on seaweed, which releases the scent of the sea as you chew, and then adding soy sauce seasoning allows you to enjoy the flavors of Korea. Additionally, the sui mono (clear soup) made with shiitake mushrooms, clam, and radish is a delicacy. The fragrant yet earthy aroma of shiitake mushrooms meets the refreshing clams, creating a marvelous combination of sea and land. The freshness is already evident with those two ingredients, and the simmered radish enhances the refreshing flavor.
Just as the matsutake spreads its spores to fragrance its surroundings, Master An is also genuinely dedicated to nurturing his disciples. He mentioned his desire to establish a culinary school that matches the development of South Korea's gastronomy. Moreover, he aims to create a 'Street of Masters' by bringing various Master chefs to join around Gamae Il-sik. The path taken by a Master leaves its own trace, just as a matsutake leaves behind its subtle aroma.
Please introduce yourself briefly.
"I am An Yu-seong, the 16th Cooking Master of South Korea. I am currently the president of the Sea Chef Association and the head of the Korean Chef Association branch in Gwangju and Jeonnam. I obtained my Master certification on Sept. 1, 2023. I also operate Gamae Il-sik, Gwangju Ok, Jangsu Najukongtang, and Jangsu Hoegwan."
What kind of place is Gamae Il-sik?
"Gamae Il-sik is a Japanese restaurant in Gwangju that has been visited by former Presidents Kim Dae-jung, Roh Moo-hyun, Moon Jae-in, Park Geun-hye, and Yoon Suk-yeol. Overall, it presents traditional Japanese cuisine while incorporating Jeonnam ingredients to create a unique flavor exclusive to Gamae. It showcases the rich culinary resources of Honam, such as mackerel, surf clam, natural matsutake, and octopus."
What prompted you to start cooking?
"Originally, my family operated Jangsu Hoegwan restaurant. My mother's pickled fish business had a significant influence on me from a young age. I developed an eye for selecting ingredients by accompanying her and learned the power of good ingredients naturally. I also picked ingredients while running errands at the market and learned through those experiences."
I'm curious about how you began focusing on Japanese cuisine.
"I originally liked deep-sea fishing and dreamed of becoming a tuna-catching captain. Then, in the early 1990s, I fell in love with the sight of sushi being made and headed to Seoul impulsively. I started at a small sashimi restaurant in Oryu-dong and later moved to a larger Japanese restaurant named Dadog. I also learned from Chef Kim Young-joo, who came from the Shilla Hotel, and Chef Kim Jin-hong from the Chosun Hotel. Chef Kim Young-joo often sent me to Japan for training to broaden my horizons. I still remember that experience, so I now send my excellent disciples for training in Japan. I prefer to teach my disciples how to catch fish rather than just giving them fish."
I'm curious about the process of becoming a Cooking Master.
"To become a Cooking Master, one must first obtain certification in Korean cuisine, Chinese cuisine, and Japanese cuisine. Then, one must pass the Master exam, having around 15 to 20 years of experience in the field. Even after achieving this status, one must also be recognized as an exceptional skilled worker. There are additionally various conditions related to volunteer points, theses, and other areas. The documentation required is about the thickness of a book. You can only apply once a year, and out of 37 years of the program, there have only been 17 Cooking Masters. I failed seven times. It truly was a case of 'seven challenges, eight recoveries.' (laughs)"
You must have faced significant frustrations.
"Every moment in the process of challenging for Master was filled with tension and nervousness. After failing, I often thought I wouldn't apply again. But strangely, I kept preparing the documents. As I refined my weaknesses while failing, suddenly, I found myself with 'wings' on my back. Even after failing, I kept getting back up again, and this led me to put more sincerity into my efforts. My volunteering changed from merely accumulating points to a sincere expression. I want to offer culinary experiences that heal people's weary hearts; that is truly proper food."
What is the charm of sushi?
"I never get tired of eating it daily. While sashimi can get repetitive, sushi strangely does not. Moreover, creating that tiny piece of sushi requires immense skill. The challenge of perfecting just one piece is also fascinating."
How is the sushi at Gamae?
"I try to select rice from the region. I also adjust the variety according to the climate. For example, the rice from Haenam is small and firm. I utilize these characteristics to create sushi. Additionally, I use homemade naturally fermented kelp vinegar to season it."
What are your goals after becoming a Master?
"I have gradually acquired approximately 1,500 pyeong for establishments including Gwangju Ok, Gamae Il-sik, and Najukongtang. In the future, I would like to create a 'Street of Masters' based on these locations. I have also spoken with Ma Ok-cheon, the representative of BéBé, who has also become a pastry Master. He said he would participate if a Master street is formed. My goal is to create something like a landmark in Gwangju. Additionally, I want to establish a school for young chefs, similar to the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in the United States and Le Cordon Bleu in France, where they can learn everything about food and business in Korea."
With many celebrities visiting, I'm curious if there were any interesting anecdotes.
"Famous saxophonist Kenny G reportedly eats only two meals a day. He stopped by Gamae during the day to eat sushi and, as it turned out, came again that evening. His manager mentioned that he really enjoyed the meals. Also, the late former President Kim Dae-jung was a fan of our sushi. Whenever he had sushi, he would take a nap for about 30 minutes. One day, I was surprised when I received a sudden call from Cheong Wa Dae, worrying that something might have happened. However, he simply asked to have two servings packed because he wanted to eat it at the Blue House. I think that is the highest compliment for a chef."
I'm curious about what kind of sushi you made with Honam region ingredients.
"There is sushi made with bamboo shoots from Damyang, and natural matsutake sushi from Namwon. In Jeollanam-do, you can taste freshly slaughtered meat prepared on the same morning. Sushi made from that fresh meat is also available. Sushi made from flounder weighing over 4 kg from Wando and also raw red mackerel are among the various options. At Gamae, you can taste almost directly or indirectly the cuisine of Jeonnam. The recommended course is the Namdo sushi course, where you can enjoy both sushi and Jeonnam dishes."
If there is a dish that resembles your life, what would it be?
"Dobbing mushi. It is similar to Chinese hot pot. It is a dish where various ingredients are placed in a kettle and boiled. It contains natural matsutake, chicken, ginkgo nuts, and shrimp. When it's cooked, the subtle fragrance continues to entice you. It's a dish that leaves a lingering impression. I want to leave a mark on people's hearts just like that dobbing mushi."
Please share a message for those who visit Gamae.
"I have met numerous guests throughout my life, experiencing many ups and downs. Some guests came as children and returned after getting married, while others came with their grandchildren. I want Gamae to be a restaurant that fosters long-lasting connections with each customer. I am always grateful and wish for these relationships to remain strong."